An Insider’s Rome

It is perhaps redundant to say that Rome is one of the most beautiful and unique capitol cities in the world.  Historians and travelers from ancient to modern times have sung its many praises.  I feel, however, that it still needs to be said.  Rome has intrigued both young and old with its magic for millennia and the spell continues.

I was one of many who have fallen under its magic charm.  I came to Rome approximately forty years ago to complete my graduate studies in fine art and have remained ever since. 

It hasn’t been easy, at times, but it sure has been fun.  When traveling, as I’m sure you already know, the first notion that you need to get out of your head is that Rome or wherever you happen to be bound is not Kansas City and you are not Dorothy.  The yellow brick road does exist; you just need to discover it.

Konstantinos Kavafi, in his poem, Ithaca, says it very well – it is not “arriving” that counts but rather the path you take to get there.  The lessons you learn and knowledge you gain on this voyage is what “it is all about”. .Rome should be on everyone’s path, a port-of-call not to be missed on your voyage to Ithaca.

Having lived in the Eternal City for many moons it still has not revealed all of its mysteries to me.  There is much still to be discovered, even for me.  If you are a “first timer” to the city there are things which, of course, you “must” see – the Coliseum and Forum area, the fountain of Trevi, Piazza Navona with Bernini’s spectacular fountains, and last but not least, the Vatican.  Rome, however, jealously guards many more treasures which will take you, perhaps, a second or third visit to discover and enjoy.

Rome is a safe city and the center is very walk able.  The majority of sites and museums are easily reached by walking, taxi, bus or metro lines.

Rome is beautiful in any of the four seasons.  I prefer spring and fall when the weather is much more “creature friendly” and the hordes of summer tourists have not yet arrived “en masse” or have just departed and the city once again belongs to those who live there.

Rome can also be used as a spring board for other cities and nearby sites which lie only a short distance away.  Nearby Ostia Antica, Rome’s version of Pompeii, or Tivoli with the Emperor Hadrian’s Villa and Villa D’Este renowned for its thousand fountains are very accessible.  Visits to Florence or other Tuscan cities can also easily be reached by train. To the south, Naples, Pompeii, Herculano, Sorrento, Capri and Ischia await you. 

If you are Rome bound the following information might be of interest to you.  I have compiled it for friends visiting the city for the first time.  I hope that you too may find it motivating and helpful. 

Suggestions on how to tackle Rome the first time around

Rome is a large town.  Don’t let the map intimidate you and make you feel that it is enormous and insurmountable….it isn’t!

Your boundaries should basically be from the Coliseum to Piazza del Popolo

and from the Spanish Steps to Piazza Navona.  If you explore that area you will have done more than enough on your first trip!

On your first full day in the city I would walk and explore the above area.  Or you

might more wisely decided to do it section by section, area by area.  Remember to drink a lot of liquids.  Sightseeing is more strenuous and exhausting than you might think. 

Any church you go by which is open, go into it.  Any large palace that has the front door open, go into it…..the worst they can say to you is “get out”.  Both churches and palazzi (palaces) are full of wonderful works of art.  Be brave!

Proposed Itinerary:

The Coliseum (il colosseo) area.  Begin at the coliseum.  Check it out and you may even want to buy a ticket and go in.  (I wouldn’t) 

Four blocks behind the Coliseum is an incredible church, San Clementi, where you can descend three levels and at the very bottom view sections of an ancient senators house and a part of an ancient Roman apartment building, an insula.  There is also a small temple to Mitra found here.  This deviation is well worth taking.  It is on Via San Giovanni in Laterano.  San Clementi has normal church hours – 8:30 to 13:00 and then from 15:30 to about 6:00.

Then return to the Coliseum, view the arch of Constantine and go up the

Via Sacra and walk through the Roman Forum.  If that entrance is not open you will have to go down Via Imperiale until you find the main entrance. 

On the opposite end of the Coliseum walk up the large hill, the Capitoline or

Campidoglio (one of the Seven Hills of Rome) where the town hall is and where

the mayor of Rome does his business. 

There are two fantastic museums on the top in the Piazza del Campidoglio which

was designed by Michelangelo, the Capitoline Museums, and one ticket allows you to visit both museums.  On the lowest level of both museums there is a “secret passage” which allows you to go from one museum to the other and visit the ancient Tablinium where the ancient Romans kept their state archives.

The Pantheon.  Open all day and is a must.  The surrounding area is also very interesting.   After walking around a bit here you might want to go to either Piazza Navona (two blocks away) and sit at a cafè and watch people as you sip your coffee or wine.  Camp dei’ Fiori in the afternoon from about 4:30 on would also be an interesting place to sit and “people watch”.      

An absolute MUST is the Vatican.  The church of St.Peters and the Vatican museums have nothing to do with each other.  They are separate entities!

I would suggest to start your Vatican visit with the Vatican Museums (Musei Vaticani). Go early!  They open at 8:45.  They close on some days at 12:45 and on others at 3:30.  Take the 64 bus from the train station,Termini, and get off at the last stop which is right outside Vatican City.  Follow the Vatican City walls to the right until you get to the museum entrance. You will probably need a good two to three hours here.  In the course of viewing the museum you will pass through the Sistine Chapel.  The museum is closed on Sunday except the last Sunday of the month when it is free.  I would not suggest going on this “free day” for it is complete bedlam.

After this experience, if you are not completely exhausted, I would retrace my

steps along the Vatican walls until I got to the Basilica of San Pietro (St.Peters).

Do not do this on a Wednesday for this is when the Pope holds audience.  It

is quite an experience.  Take your time and marvel at all of the precious works

of art and the glitter of the gold.  The basilica is open all day non-stop.  No

shorts or tank tops are allowed!    

The Angel Castle (Castel Sant’Angelo).  If you walk straight down Via della

Concilazione (the large street leading up to St.Peters) you will hit the Angel

Castle.  It was originally built around 120A.D. by the Emperor Hadrian as his

family mausoleum and since then has been used for many other things.  A

medieval fort, a residence for the Popes, a prison until the mid-1800’s when

it was finally turned into a museum.  Go up to the very top and you will have

a beautiful view of Rome!

The Villa Borghese (Borghese Gallery) found in Piazza Scipione Borghese is a must for art lovers.  Built by Cardinal Borghese in the 1500’s, it is an excellent example of a Renaissance/Baroque family palace and their art collection is incredible.  The villa has recently reopened after 15 years of restoration.  The Villa is surrounded by a lovely park where if the weather is nice and the mood so grabs you, you can lay under a tree and contemplate your place in the universe. The gallery is found in the park at the very end of Via Veneto.  It is closed on Mondays as are all state museums.

If you are tired of archaeological and museum treks you may want to venture

to the other side of the Tiber (Tevere) and explore the region known as

Trastevere.  It is a lovely medieval part of the city with small winding streets

and lovely restaurants.  It is very similar to the West Bank in Paris!

Places to “Hang Out”.  For a pause in your day or evening with a desire to

sit down and sip wine or whatever” turns you on” and watch people you may

wish to venture to Piazza di Spagna, Piazza Navona, Campo dei Fiori (after 4:00)

or go to Trastevere and sit in the lovely Piazza di Santa Maria in Trastevere. 

Another suggestion would be to take a day trip to either Florence (Firenze) or

Naples (Napoli).  From Naples you could take another short train and visit

the ruins at Pompeii.  They can be easily done in a day.  An exhausting day but an unforgettable experience. They are both about a two hours train ride from Rome.

Take a deep breath and go for it…… it is more than worth it!

Dennis Cigler is a painter and long term Rome resident.  His art works can be viewed at www.denniscigler.com.  He is also a tour guide and educator and heads the arts dept. at one of Rome’s most prestigious international schools along with being an International Baccalaureate Visual Arts examiner.  He can be contacted at:  d.cigler@gmail.com.

Credits:  All dry point etchings and photographs by Dennis Cigler